We flew directly to Tangier from Barcelona. Morocco in February is ideal for free-range exploration or wandering the narrow lanes of the Medina(walled part)and colourful Kasbah (citadel). During our visit, a storm brought heavy rain, canceling school and turning this already small Medina into something of a ghost town. It made for a quiet, atmospheric introduction to our first Moroccan Medina:(arabesque doors, Phoenician tombs, Jewish cemetery, delicious food and even local wine)
Arriving at Ibn Battuta airport in Tangier, it only seemed fitting to visit the museum dedicated to its namesake. Ibn Battuta was the most famous Muslim trail blazer and explorer visiting 38 countries over a remarkable 30 year span, all this during the 14th Century)
Henri Matisse once painted from the window in the Grand Hotel Villa de France during his long stays from 1912 to 1913. His room has been transformed into a museum. Matisse went on to incorporate strong Moroccan influence into his art, particularly with the use of bold colours.
After 2 days in Tangier we took a taxi to Chefchaouen which
truly has a unique photogenic Medina with walls, doors and even streets painted in hues from powder blue to indigo.
The heavy rains meant the streets were completely ours: meandering along the narrow alleys, speaking to locals, the bakers in the public ovens, and even spotting the only green door!
Sadly we could not go into the mountains due to the flash floods and washed out roads, so onward to Fes........
Fes is one of Morocco’s former imperial cities with a large Medina filled with narrow alleyways, majestic palaces, madrases and mosques, mosaic fountains, wooden doors with arabesque designs, a cornucopia of souks (markets) and of course... dead ends!
From Fes we continued by train to Meknes (or Meknez). A half hour train ride from Fes, this colourful city of contrasts was a former 17thC imperial capital city of Sultan Moulay Ismail. Due to his ambitious and defensive planning Meknes has 40 km of walls and ramparts, both inner and outer walls with beautifully decorated mosaic gates-truly fortified! His mausoleum is equally well adorned with fountains, mosaics and arches. The Medina is vibrant with markets and colourful alleys.
In the fertile plains of Meknez, is one of the best-preserved Roman sites in North Africa, VOLUBILIS, from 3rdC BCE.
The site has seen Libyco-Berber and Mauritanian, Roman, Christian and Arabo-Islamic cultures. Only half of the 40 hectare city has been excavated exposing many beautiful well preserved mosaic floors, by far the best we have seen.
Romans designated the Berber aristocrat, Juba the 2nd of Mauritania, as king from 50 BCE to 24 CE. He was married to Anthony & Cleopatra’s daughter!
The impressive monuments were built in the 2-3rd C CE, including the Triumphant arch, the basilica, & baths.
Where there where Romans…there will be wine! We had a super wine tasting at Villa Volubilia, served with local fresh goat cheese and olive oil. Who would have imagined visiting a vineyard in Morocco!
Onwards to RABAT
Morocco’s capital city, Rabat, is modern and organized with a picturesque Kasbah, hassle-free Medina, Atlantic coastline, 12thC Mohammed the 5th mausoleum, the incomplete 12thC Hassan Tower and mosque, Royal Palace, Grand theatre, and the historic Chellah’s scenic gardens, Roman ruins and the noisy storks as they click their beaks.
The Chellah, perhaps a former Phoenicien then Roman fortification (3rdC BCE to 5thC CE) lies on the top of a hill overlooking green fertile land. The Chellah saw much building during the 13-15thC Islamic period.
Next city and another train ride down the coast was CASABLANCA. This is a modern, vibrant coastal city with a beautiful corniche, exquisite Hassan the 2nd Mosque, a super mix of arabesque and art deco architectural styles. as well as a cinematic tribute bar/restaurant to the movie Casablanca: Rick’s Café. Opened March 1, 2004 the place was designed to recreate the set of the bar made famous by Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman. Rick's Café Casablanca was developed by Kathy Kriger (1946–2018), a former American diplomat and commercial attaché in Morocco. The restaurant is housed in a traditional Moroccan grand mansion with a central courtyard, built in 1930.
Our last stop was MARRAKECH, the red city, is certainly one of contrasts with high end oasis resorts, wine bars, and top restaurants. While not far from the city nearing the High Atlas Mountains you find humbling Berber homes with scenic Mountain views. The large Medina with 9km of walls was much easier to navigate and less intimidating than Fes. You just have to give way to cars, bikes, motorbikes, or donkey carts!
Overall Morocco was a feast for all 5 senses and we would highly recommend traveling outside of the peak tourist season.
Best regards,
Lynne and Atle
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