On SV ATLAS - Outremer 51  
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   Updated 7th July 2025
 
SV ATLAS

After Petter and Knut returned home, Gerd and Lynne joined Øyvin and Atle for the initial cruising from Grenada to Martinique via Union Island, Mayreau (Salt Whistle Bay), Tobago Cays, Mustique, Bequia and St. Lucia.

Our first stop was at Chatham Bay, Union Island to check into St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Hurricane Beryl hit this island and northern islands of Grenada in July 2024. Shocking to see the devastation. The entire resort was wiped out and a lot of vegetation stripped or dead like these trees.

Probably our favorite place in Caribbean. Salt Whistle Bay on the island of Mayreau.

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We were in Salt Whistle Bay 3 times with Bar-B-Q lobster dinner on the beach cooked by the locals that had a drawing to smoking a lot of self grown "funny-tobacco".

Mustique. A very strange place with the likes of Mick Jagger, Brian Adams, Bill Gates, Johnny Depp, Oprah Winfrey and other celebrities who own homes. Here is the famous Basil's Bar that was open to cruisers.

OOPS! We accidentally walked out of the hotel area at sunset, seeing an enormous well lit villa only to find out it was Mick Jagger's. Next door was Johnny Depp's place. We had mixed feelings seeing this crazy opulence while on the next island people hardly have food to eat.

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Bianca, Olly and Sophi joined us in Martinique and we returned to the southern islands for 10 days or so.

Some of the locals have initiative and come up with innovative business models. Here, a floating bar came by selling, fruits, vegetables, fresh fish, lobster, mixed drinks, coconut cookies, rum punch & conch shells.

An excellent visit to Habitation Clément rum (or Rhum in French) distillery. Fantastic visitor center and tasting. Good thing we took a taxi as there was a lot of rums to taste. White rum tasted like gasoline while up to 15 year aged rum was excellent for some! Of course we got quite "lubricated" and bought more expensive rum then we should have. It was a good business model as we spent a lot in the shop. Most rums on Martinique are Agricole rum meaning they are made from sugarcane rather than molassis.

A selection of Clément Rhums we tasted, some of which we can buy in the wine store down the road in Barcelona.

2 Pitons on St. Lucia. A UNESCO World Heritage site. There is a very nice (and super expensive) resort on the beach in between the 2 Pitons, Sugar Bay Resort.

Christmas Eve celebrations on Bequia with about 140 Norwegian cruisers. Apparently this has been a tradition for a number of years.

Yes. Hats are drawn on. But it was a nice Christmas for sure.

Christmas Day dog rescue in Salt Whistle bay. This poor puppy had fallen down in a hole in one of the buildings destroyed by hurricane Beryl in 2024 and the locals did not know what to do and were not bothered. We found some wood and Olly climbed down to retrieve the dog. We named the dog Noel (French for Christmas). When we came back a few weeks later we asked about the dog. Apparently it ran up the hill to the village and stayed there, not to be seen on the beach again.

Freddy and Kenrick cooked our Christmas Day lobster dinner. Really nice people that had all their livelihood wiped out by Beryl in 2024. Slowly but surely they are rebuilding their beach restaurants.

James returned for a visit. Ready for dinner in Marigot Bay on St. Lucia, arriving after customs closed and left before they opened, this way we did not have to check in.

In 2024 when ATLAS was in Montenegro, we joined Barbera and Uli on JOLIE in St. Martin, Anguilla and BVI. In 2025 JOLIE was in Montenegro so they joined us in ST. Vincent & The Grenadines.

There was quite a lot of memorials, museums and parks that reminded us of the origin of most of the locals. Pretty much 100% of them are descendants of the slaves that were brought in from Africa. This one in particular was a memorial on Martinique in honor of a ship that sank in a storm on 9th April 1830. Some pretty horrific stories on how the slaves were treated. Each of these 2.5m statues weight 4 tons.

As a country (or large Island) Dominica is our favorite, especially onshore. The island of 365 rivers (they claim), extinct or slightly active volcanos, multiple fantastic waterfalls, fresh water lakes, hot and cold springs (with and without Sulphur) and in general just a fantastic island to explore. This picture of Trafalgar falls.

House of Calypso from the movie Pirates of Caribbean 2, up Indian River.

Elvis took us on the tour up the river and a botanical walk to learn about the various herbs, fruits and vegetables grown in Dominica.

Mirgul

Mirgul and Frank flew in from the US and spent 4 days with us for Mirgul's birthday. Including 2 days of onshore exploring.

Back in Dominica, lunch on ATLAS with Elvis, Sharon and Murray after an Indian River tour. Heavy rain that day.

In Chateaubellair Bay on St. Vincent, this young gentleman was out on his paddleboard drumming up some business. What a super little kid Chavez is. He was interested in us (and particularly Sophi), very honest and really a nice guy to chat with. We stopped by here 3-4 times for custons and immigration and he was there every time and ready to chat for hours. This is also the place where the immigration officer is the taxi driver that took us to the waterfalls. Needless to say this is a very small village.

Inthe beginning of March we made it to Antigua and hooked up with the full Tognet clan for a week!

Here outside Pillars restaurant within the UNESCO Heritage site of English Harbour, a natural harbour. This was Admiral Nelson's main base and was considered hurricane proof.

On our way back from St. John we were "convinced" to take a side-trip to go to Sunset Horizon Beach. Supposed to be the best Rum Punches in Antigua and they were indeed very tasty!

We took ATLAS out for a day-sail stopping for a bar-b-q and a short afternoon nap under the sunshade.

The island of Montserrat with its active volcano. Columbus named it so as he thought it looked like Montserrat Mountain just outside Barcelona. It is still a UK colony with only about 4700 inhabitants, and not very accessible. We did have a stopover there as you will see further down.

Barbuda is basically a large sandbank north of Antigua with a population of 1600 . Robert De Nero has a large presence with even a Nobu restaurant and some very upscale villa projects completely out of place compared to the local population. It was fantastic snorkeling and the most beautiful beaches we had seen, some with sand a tint of pink.

There is a large Frigate bird colony on Barbuda.

Arriving to Nobu by dingy for our exceptional meal on the beach.

Derrick stayed with us after the rest of the Tognets returned up north.

After a downwind sail we arrived at the island of St. Kitts staying for 5 days waiting for acceptable weather to sail on. Nice beaches and interesting history with island swapping to be under French and English control.

After Derrick left and wind subsided and we motored down to Nevis; a smaller and more quiet island than St. Kitts. Lynne is testing out the hot-springs. 40 degrees. HOT.

We did have some excellent snorkeling trips, but did not see anywhere where scuba equipment would improve the scenery by much. Other than an underwater propeller repair we left the scuba equipment in the sail-locker. Snorkeling was plenty good.

Montserrat

After a very nasty upwind sail we arrived in Montserrat. The southern half of the island is an exclusion zone where a special authorized guide and permissions are required to visit. This is obviously due to the active volcano that wiped out the capital, Plymouth, in 1997.

Not quite Pompei, but here we see a hotel bathroom in Plymouth covered by pyroclastic ash after the 1997 eruption. The area had been evacuated which is why there were only 19 casualties. These were farmers that went back to work on their land, defying orders.

Sunset in Deshaies on the northwest coast of Guadeloupe. The TV series “Death in Paradise” is filmed here.

Kalinga

On a strip of land on the East coast (i.e. facing the Atlantic with waves all year) covering 3% of Dominica, live the remaining 3000 people identifying themselves as Kalinago. Of these, only about 70 are pure Kalinago. These Kalinago (also known as Caribs) along with the Arawak were the people that was here when Columbus arrived. Yet another not so proud moment in white European history with how the Europeans treated the original inhabitants. Here a young Kalinga boy is fishing with a hand-line. They do have canoes, but also regular modern fishing boats with outboard-engines.

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Bianca and Sophi came back for Easter and we visited Guadeloupe and Aruba. Sunset cocktails in Deshaies, Guadaloupe.

Jolly Harbour, Antigua. The marina and residential area modeled on the French port of Grimaud.

Top view of Atlas take by the inspector who inspected ATLAS prior to selling. It's a long way up, 24 meters.

sunset

A beautiful sunset on our last night-sail from Martinique to Granada.

After an excellent 24 hour sail from Martinique ATLAS is back in Port Louis, Grenada where we stared 5 months earlier.

Exit

Handing over ATLAS to the new owner.

Grenada

Likely last time we see ATLAS (now JUNO) as we flew out of Grenada.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is a link to the 2024/2025 movements of ATLAS and click here to see our journey with ATLAS since the beginning. The batteries ran out halfway across Atlantic, but were replaced when we got to Dominica.

Following the Atlantic Crossing we were cruising up and down in the southern Caribbean Islands. We got as far North as Barbuda.

Sailing in Caribbean is another level and just so much better than the Mediterranean. We had wind from 60-120 degrees (i.e. mostly east) just about every day, on a broad reach most of the time which is a fantastic angle for a catamaran. Quite strong winds at times and most of the time we sailed with one or even 2 reefs in the main sail. Only one day (our last ever sailing day)we had the gennaker up. Genearlly the wind angle was far too low with too strong wind for the gennaker, so normal "white sails" were the right choices.

The density of Outremers in the Caribbean is fantastic and at just about every anchorage we were there was at least one Outremer, so we met a lot of new people.

We had a lot of visitors during the 5 months of cruising around the islands.

Our original plan was to sail back to Europe in May/June and sell ATLAS in the Mediterranean, but the buyer we had lined up decided to buy a new boat. We were fortunate to have another buyer interested in buying ATLAS in the Caribbean, so all worked out in the end, despite the 6% agent fee for a few hours of work, but such is the market.

It was with mixed feelings that we left ATLAS in Grenada. After 13,000 nautical miles, 17 countries, 2-1/2 seasons in the Mediterranean, the Atlantic crossing and a full season in the Caribbean, 32 months ownership and 570 days spent on the boa,t we felt it was enough and time to let someone else enjoy ATLAS!

Lynne and Atle